French Guiana - Iles du Salut
The three Iles du Salut (Islands of Salvation) off the coast of French Guiana were a much-feared penal colony for the most notorious French criminals between 1852 and 1953. We visited Ile Royale, the largest of the three, which housed the general population of the worst prisoners. Less violent criminals were sent to work camps on mainland Guiana, violent and repeat offenders to nearby Ile Saint Joseph to serve in solitary confinement, and political prisoners to Ile du Diable (Devil's Island) a short distance away.
Ile Royale, largest of the three islands, is a mere 1/8 square mile. Located seven miles off the mainland coast, prisoners here lived in "moderate freedom" because it was deemed inescapable. That said, more than 50% of the prisoners died in their first year from malnutrition, tropical diseases, harsh treatment, murder, execution, and failed escape attempts.
The islands are only accessible by boat. Once ashore at Ile Royale, we walked in the sweltering tropical heat to gain a glimpse of what life in the penal colony was like. Jan walked past what was once the pig pens to her left. The building ahead was the slaughter house.
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Prisoners were subjected to forced labor often in the workshop above. Each prisoner had a daily quota. The first day a quota was missed, their next day's ration was cut in half. Missing the quota a second day resulted in the total elimination of rations until their entire quota had been caught up to date.
A short distance away is Devil's Island used for political prisoners, not felons. Only about 50 prisoners were ever interned here during its 101 year history. The most famous was Captain Dreyfus. Falsely accused of espionage, stripped of his rank and sent to Devils Island forever, Dreyfus was eventually pardoned and reinstated after a global campaign to prove both his innocence and the rampant antisemitism of his accusers.
A typical cell was about 5' by 7' in size, most without a window. They proved to be fertile breeding grounds for yellow fever, dysentery, malaria, typhus, cholera and leprosy. It was often several days after a prisoner died or committed suicide before guards discovered their body.
Guards and prison administration lived in relative luxury. (That is if you consider sweltering heat. no air conditioning and poor sanitation luxury.)
Monkeys, this one working to open a coconut, are the only permanent residents on the island today.
The largest building on the island is the military hospital. This building was not for the prisoners, but rather military personnel stationed on the island. Wealthy citizens from the coastal city of Cayenne also stayed in the hospital for periods of convalescence away from the city.
The 1855, prisoner-built chapel is located near the center of the island. On Sundays, prisoners occupied the rear pews and passed contraband to other inmates.
The interior murals were painted by convicted forger, Francis Lagrange. Known as ‘Flag,’ Lagrange painted scenes of daily life in the prison, as well as postcard-like scenes of escapism and even erotica, for his fellow-prisoners. With the complicity of some of the prison guards, Lagrange even kept his forgery talents in practice, copying documents and official papers, earning him special privileges within the prison.
Today, 50,000 tourist visit the island each year. A few hardy families stay for several days enjoying the sun and tropical climate. Unfortunately, swimming in the warm water is unsafe because of the riptides.
On one side of the island a few 3-star hotel rooms are available. If you are interested, contact Auberge de I'll Royale for price and availability. (It's not on my bucket list!)
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