Shetland Islands, Scotland

At sunrise we entered the harbor at Lerwick, Scotland, capital of the Shetland Islands.  The temperature was a cool 50 degrees with a moderate wind and threat of rain. (We are now further north than Juneau, Alaska.)  Fishing and sheep make up the majority of their economy.  One-thousand years ago the weather was warmer and crops like wheat and barley were grown.  Today there is only a 100-day growing season and it requires two summers for cabbage to reach maturity for harvest.

Our excursion for the day was to the prehistoric and Norse settlements at Jarlshof.  There we would view archaeological remains of the ancient civilizations of the Shetland Islands.  Our coach stopped for a break at the small village of Hoswick (three stores, one cafe and most important, a bathroom!).  Above, 2% of the towns population was serving coffee to warm their shivering visitors.

On the scenic drive we passed dozens of Shetland Ponies.  Named after this island chain, the ponies have been bred here for over 2000 years.  These miniature ponies are strong and sure-footed.  Because of their short legs, they originally were used in mines.

As we approached the southern tip of the main island, we stopped to view a picturesque bay connecting to the North Atlantic Ocean.  From our high vantage point, our guide pointed out seals playfully enjoying the sun as it periodically popped out from behind clouds.  The Atlantic side of the island is always windy.  Last year they recorded 58 days with gale-force winds.

We stepped from the coach at Jarkshof and faced the full force of the 35 MPH wind.  This 3-acre site has been described as the most remarkable archaeological site ever excavated in the British Isles.  Excavations have reviled the physical remains of structures ranging from 4000 years ago, through the Bronze and Iron ages all the way up to the 18th century.

Fragmented walls of round buildings are similar to those we visited in Orknee Islands. It appears as though older villages had been abandoned allowing wind to bury them with sand.  At a latter point, a more advanced civilization built (unknowingly) a new settlement on top of it. This created the archaeological find of 4000 years of history in one small location.

Evidence of cooling weather over a several thousand year period is indicated by latter structures having tunnel like entrances as a protection from the cold weather.

Early AD, after another break in the occupation of the area, a tall broch was constructed "on top" of the previous settlement houses.

Evidence of the vikings arrival about the 9th century can be seen by the rectangular structure.  Norse were famous for their Long Houses.  The earlier structures at the site are all round houses.

Its finally time to head back to a warmer place.  That hotel looks pretty good!

The bartender at the hotel explains the benefits of Scotch whisky in helping one keep warm in this cold and windy climate.