Qaqortoq, Greenland

Overnight the Viking Sun arrived at the small fishing village of Qaqortoq, Greenland and anchored in the bay.  At 8:55 AM we tendered ashore to visit this isolated community of 3,000 Inuits only accessible by boat or helicopter.  (The local people prefer to be called Greenlanders or Inuits and find it insulting to be called Eskimos.)

Colorful wooden houses are built on steep, rocky inclines against the coastal mountains.  With only a few automobiles, walking is the preferred means of transportation.  There are no roads connecting to other villages and the residents depend on a weekly ferry for supplies.  Locally, they fish and hunt seals for meat.

During our stop we visited a local Greenlander's home to learn about their lifestyle firsthand.  While walking (uphill) to our host's home, we passed an apartment building occupied by senior citizens.  Notice the clothes drying outside their windows.  Now let me remind you that the outside temperature was 44 degrees.

Our host was ready for our arrival.  The 1-1/2 hour visit had been prearranged and though she could not speak English, our local (high school) guide spoke perfect English and acted as our interpreter. 

On the south side of her house she proudly showed her garden where strawberries, rhubarb, potatoes and turnips were planted.  During the short growing season, these fresh vegetables supplemented the weekly supplies coming by ferry.

Our host, a 73 year-old widow, had lived in this house for 50 years.  Her husband, the captain of a freighter, past away 3-years ago.  She was extremely proud of her three children, none of which live in the village now.

Our host had prepared home-made pastries served with coffee and tea.  The dining room table was set with her finest china purchased in Denmark after her marriage 50-years ago.

Nuka, our guide on the right, helped explain the traditional native outfits that are worn today during special family and national events.  

Nuka pointed out the construction and detail of the traditional seal-skin boots.


Nautical Term of the day -- Scuttlebutt

The "Butt" was a barrel.  "Scuttle" meant to chop a hole in something.  The "scuttlebutt" was a water barrel with a hole cut into it so that sailors could reach in and scoop out drinking water.  The "scuttlebutt" was the place where the ship's gossip was exchanged.